Jul
30
2004
Today I cleaned the whole floor down with marine clean

then went over the new sheet metal and surface rusted areas with por-15

All i have left to do is mask off the areas I don’t want Herculiner, scuff up the floor, and roll on the Herculiner.
no comments | posted in 1992 XJ Build
Jul
29
2004
A few pictures from today. I didn’t get very far because my angle grinder stopped working on me. I think it’s the switch….I’ll be bringing it back to Sears Hardware tonight for a replacement.
the hole i was patching.

sheet metal cut to size

still not as pretty as I’d like. but i layed some better beads this time around

I just need to get my new angle grinder so i can grind down those welds…then i can finish repairing the last hole.
Then it’s time for the Herculiner
no comments | posted in 1992 XJ Build
Jul
27
2004
I started today off by relocating my front brake lines for more travel


Then I went on to start repairing the holes in the floor
Piece of sheet metal cut to size

my welding sure ain’t pretty, but it’s definitely gonna hold

then I used some POR-15 to cover it up
no comments | posted in 1992 XJ Build
Jul
27
2004
I had heard of people relocating their front brake lines to get more length, but after installing some Rubicon Express Stainless extended lines, I figured I had no need. Well, I was wrong. After a few wheeling trips, I noticed that my tires were catching on my brake lines at full lock. This was not good! I am glad that I hadn’t ripped the line before finding this out. So, this is how I relocated my front brake lines.
First thing you want to do is remove the bolt holding the line to the “framerail” Just make sure to keep that bolt, because you will be reusing it!
Next, you want to CAREFULLY bend the hard line to the location you want to install it. Then mark that location and drill a 1/4″ hole in the framerail.
Then, you want to reuse the original bolt that you removed from the hard line and mount it in the new location. The bolt will act as a self-tapper. Just make sure you do not over-tighten it and strip the new threads:
Now my tires no longer catch the brake line at full lock, and I gained a few more inches of brakeline for articulation:
no comments | posted in Tech Articles
Jul
26
2004
First of all, I finally got my PIAA 520’s wired up and working today

Where I mounted the switch

working on repairing the rust

I decided these two sections needed to be replaced with new metal

Hopefully I will be welding in new metal tomorrow….I finished the day off by cleaning up the floor

no comments | posted in 1992 XJ Build
Jul
20
2004
I took a few minutes this morning and finished stripping the interior. The great news is that there is no more rust holes on the drivers side.
That only leaves me with a total of 2 holes in the floor to repair, and the biggest one is the size of a quarter!




no comments | posted in 1992 XJ Build
Jul
18
2004
At the GLJT Show and Shine today, someone brought a scale so we could weigh our jeeps, and I got some good info on my XJ today
The weight of my XJ with me in it is: 4115 lbs
It breaks down like this:
front left: 1105 lbs
front right: 900 lbs
rear left: 1163 lbs
rear right: 1100 lbs
This was with an almost full gas tank
no comments | posted in 1992 XJ Build
Jul
18
2004
Just a few of the pics I took today.
Zach in his M170 next to the GLJT sign.

Not good enough for next years flyer

kid4lyf

Eddie

the RTI champ himself

…and Joe

no comments | posted in Events
Jul
14
2004
Passenger seat gone

Center console taken out

The floor isn’t too bad under the passenger side front either. There are a few spots that need a little work, and one hole about the size of a quarter. The rest of the floor actually seems really solid.


here’s the one hole

no comments | posted in 1992 XJ Build
Jul
2
2004
If you want a cheap way to get some of the heat from out of your engine compartment, adding hood spacers is one possible option, and it is very easy to do. Here’s what you need:
- 6″ of 3/4″ square tube
- 4 grade 8.8 screws m8×40mm
- 5/16″ drill bit
First get all your materials:
Then you need to cut the 3/4″ square tube into 2 pieces that are 3″ in length:
Next you need to drill two 5/16″ holes that are 50mm apart, and centered on the tube:
Here’s how your hood mounts:
You can add the spacers yourself by doing only one side at a time. In order to keep control of the hood with one side unbolted, I used a piece of wood to stabilize it:
Then install the new spacers with the new bolts and tighten them up:
…and now you have hood spacers to allow heat out of the engine compartment. Don’t forget to paint them! (I painted them after checking their fit):
1 comment | posted in Tech Articles