Well,the passenger side doorless modification is done. It’s a little more sloppy than the drivers side, but still worth it 
Since the hinge pin was pressed in from the bottom, i had to take a bolt of the same size, cut off the threads and put it in from the top. Then I tack welded it for good measure.
welded:
installed and painted:
I got the passenger side door off but it’s a lot more complicated than the driver’s side, so i still haven’t finished the quick disconnect part yet…
I also switched over from my non-working power antenna to a regular fixed antenna
The old antenna
gone
new antenna
Now I just gotta finish the passenger door, adjust my toe, fix the brake hard line and then i can go wheeling this saturday….
New battery and cables installed this morning, before I head to the Midwest NAXJA BBQ
The old stuff
Gone
Installed!
Worked on this for a few hours today. Still need to work out some bugs so that it’s a little easier to take off. So far I only did the driver’s side.
Got my Optima Red Top battery today
Plus everything I need to re-gear my axles showed up today as well. Yukon 4.88 gears, master install kits and carriers.
By the end of the month, I should have front and rear lockers, too!
Let’s start with the driver’s side. It is the easiest side because the hinge pin is pressed in from the top. You have two options here. First, you can take the door off by getting at the 6 torx bolts holding the door to the hinge. That is how I did my driver’s side. The second option is getting a sawzall at the hinge, and cutting off the bottom part with the door still on. I used this method on the passenger side because I couldn’t get the bolts out.
Here is the hinge on the driver’s side:
This is around the area you want to make your cut on the hinge:
Here is the bottom of the hinge cut off:
From this point, I cut the bottom of the hinge pin shorter so that I could easily lift the doors off the hinges. You will repeat this process on the second hinge on the door.
Now we move to the passenger side door. This side is a little more complicated because the hinge pin is pressed in from the bottom, however, if you managed to complete the driver’s side door, you should have no problems with this side. You want to cut the bottom of the hinge off just like you did with the driver’s side door. Once it is cut, you can pound it off with a hammer, but realize that the pin will come out with the bottom part of the hinge you just cut off, so make sure to support the door.
I found two partially threaded bolts at the hardware store that were the same diameter as the original hinge pin, and cut them down to the size I needed. Then I slid this bolt into the hinge from the top. Here’s a picture of the bolt in the hinge:
I then tack welded the head of the bolt to the hinge, so it would not slide up when putting the door back on:
Then all you have to do is put the hinge back on the door, and the result is the same as the driver’s door:
Just finish the second hinge the same way, and you are done! The passenger door will now lift off and back on like the driver’s.
Grinding the bottom of the hinge pins/bolts so that they are kind of rounded helps assist in getting the doors back on. Also adding a little grease helps the doors slide on and off more easily. Including the time it takes me to disconnect the wires I can get both doors off in under 3 minutes. Putting them back on takes me about 5 minutes total.
As for electrical wiring, I have completely removed my kick panels. Then when I want the doors off, I just disconnect the wires behind the kickpanel and feed them out.
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